Essaouira is a great place to get away from the warmth and stir of the bigger cities. This little town South of Casablanca has been a beach destination between Moroccans for several decades. It was also a admired destination among hippies during the 1970′s. Seeped in history, Essaouira is one of Morocco’s most distinctive and attractive coastal towns. It’s been a trading base for well over 1,000 years, trade in the lot from slaves and unusual mauve dye to tea and sardines, and its medina, fortified by the Portuguese in the 15th century, is still a thriving commercial centre, full of tiny shops selling beads, carpets and handmade shoes. But it’s most famous for the friendly, laidback vibe which, since the 1950s, has inspired artists, musicians and filmmakers including Orson Welles, who legendary used the city’s imposing fortifications as a setting for his cinematic version of Othello.
Recently the city is still a vacation destination among locals from Casablanca and Marrakech. Lately it has regained some international fame thanks to its strong winds that draw wind surfers and surfers from all the continents. You will appreciate its relaxed ambient even more if you come from one of the bustling Imperial cities. If you accompany me, I will try to show you around.
Essaouira’s Attractions
Essaouira’s major attraction may be its calming atmosphere. It’s not a big town, and being a beach place it has a holiday feel about it. Essaouira is very much a working port and a fishing town.
The Medina and (Market) Wall gate: If the medinas of Marrakech or Fes overwhelmed you, you’ll enjoy a more relaxed shopping experience in Essaouira. Old Essaouira is a rather small town encircled by a wall. The town’s walls have several gates. Each one of these gates gives access to one of the Medina’s main avenues. Medina is the local name for the ancient town. Lately the city has grown outside its walls, but originally all people lived in the Medina. Basically, it is a relatively small area and you can explore at your own pace and walk down any narrow alley that looks interesting to you. The only place to avoid is the Mellah area of the medina at night.
Essaouira, Main Boulevard: The layout of the city was designed by the French architect Theodore Cornut under the orders of the Sultan Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah. The first time you walk along the streets of Essaouira you get the impression you will easily get lost — as in the rest of the Moroccan cities –, but this is not the case here. The city has a basic design, two main avenues that converge in the center of the town, and some adjacent streets. If you can’t find your way around, ask for the name of one of the town’s gates.
Essaouira, memento shop: The first things that will call your attention is that almost all doors and windows in Essaouira are painted in blue. The length of your stay in Essaouira will depend on the total time you spend in Morocco. The longer you stay in this country, the more you will appreciate your time spent here.
Some of the cities of Morocco will take a lot of energy from your body and mind. Essaouira is the perfect place to relax and to recharge your batteries. If you plan to stay in Morocco only one week, reserve one night for Essaouira. Stay one or two days more in order to recover from a longer visit to Morocco.
Essaouira, arcades: The offer of accommodation in Essaouira is quite varied. Expensive luxury hotels in front of the beach, reformed old houses and palaces (called Riads), cheap hotels and pensions, self catering apartments, and last but not least, home staying. If you do not have a place to stay, local people will offer a room in their houses at the bus station. Rooms are usually ok. An excellent option is to reserve a Riad. These old traditional houses are in the Medina (old town). Some of them are old palaces completely refurbished. Others take advantage of the Riad name and are only average houses with some nice decoration.
The beach of Essaouira is in front of the Medina, you won’t need a public transport to get there. Wind-free days in Essaouira are rare, so beach lounging isn’t really an option; instead, the broad, sandy city beach serves as a local park, popular with joggers, strollers and footballers. Conditions for windsurfing and kite-boarding are near-perfect and you’ll nearly always see boarders hurtling along; some spots are good for surfing, too. Sunbathers and swimmers are best served by the larger hotels on the seafront boulevards, which have sheltered pools.
Getting To and From Essaouira
The town of Essaouira is small enough to be visited on foot. You will need to take a taxi from the bus station, in case your hotel does not provide a pickup service. Most people get to Essaouira by bus since there is no train station. There is a direct daily bus traveling from Casablanca to Essaouira which takes about 6 hours. Ask your hotel which is the closest gate, because taxis cannot enter the Medina. From the gate you will have to walk to your hotel.
While Essaouira isn’t chiefly geared up for family holidays, the locals are very hospitable and older children may enjoy browsing for trinkets in the medina, sampling tasty little pastries and trying their hand at windsurfing.
